The People’s Restaurant

Middle Eastern Food
2829 River Road  (Niagara Street)

by Laura McClusky and Mike Niman – Buffalo Gazette Culinary Arts Critics

The People’s Restaurant has been open for less than a month, but we’re pretty excited about it.  It’s just what we’ve been clamoring for: delicious healthy and inexpensive Middle Eastern cuisine. Fantastic! The menu is primarily Lebanese, with other regional treats available as well.  Actually there are two menus.  When you sit down the waitress will ask if you want the English or the Arabic menu.  Go with the Arabic menu.  It’s bi-lingual with everything listed in both Arabic and English – but the array of Mid-Eastern is wider.

We tried the Kafta dinner ($4.99) and the Galaba dinner ($4.99).  Both were served with pita bread and a delicious seasoned yellow rice, cooked with tomatoes and an array of spices such as turmeric.  If you’re not a rice person, the Kafta is available with French Fries, but French Fries are French Fries no matter where you get them. Try something different!

Kafta is ground rolled lamb seasoned with celery, onion and a medley of Middle Eastern spices and flame broiled.  The waitress described it as a sort of meatloaf, though it has the complexity of a sausage, minus the skin.  It was the high point of our meal, moist and packed with flavor.  The kafta meat, like all the ground meat served at People’s, is freshly hand ground daily in their expansive kitchen. Mason, the owner of People’s, buys entire racks of meat and custom butchers it.  He uses only top quality Halal meat, raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic kosher law. It makes a difference. Halel meat is tastier and fresher than meats produced in factory-like agribusiness farms, where they “grow” chicken instead of “raise” it.

The kafta was served with a side of taboulee, described on the menu as “parsley salad.”  People’s makes it Lebanese style, light on the grain and heavy on the fresh parsley. Wonderful. It’s seasoned with fresh squeezed lemon and bits of tomato and onion.  It’s both delicious and extremely healthy.

Galaba is a spicy Mid-East lamb curry, replete with a small smattering of potatoes, onions and tomatoes, and the fantastic tang of cinnamon. It’s served over a generous portion of People’s yellow rice.  The lamb was chewy, which is usually the case with lamb stews, but the toughness of the meat is offset by the fact that it is wonderfully flavorful and unique. You can get it mildly spiced or a bit on the hot side. We chose hot and really enjoyed it.

We also had side orders of Falafel (75 cents) and Sambusa (75 cents).  The sambusa is much like an Indian samoza, a small deep fried pocket filled with a delicately spiced ground meat and bean filling.  It’s a nice little appetizer.  Falafel is ground fava beans spiced primarily with cumin, rolled into a ball and deep-fried. Both were good. Oddly, People’s does not have a falafel sandwich on the menu, but they have all the ingredients, including tahini (ground sesame sauce).  Everyone at the restaurant from the wait staff to the owners are extremely friendly and if you ask, I’m sure they’ll fix you a falafel sandwich – and probably add it to the menu if you come back again.  

People’s is new.  They’ve only been open for a short while and are still working the kinks out of their service and menu – but the food comes out quickly and is delicious.  They definitely have the most important part of the business down – the food! 

People’s has a homey comfortable feel to it and the food is prepared with home cooked care and freshness. The homey feel comes from the fact that everything is made with care and the kitchen’s poetic rhythm is audible in the dining area.

  If the location seems familiar, it is.  This building used to be home to Yvette’s Puerto Rican style restaurant – which also offered an excellent dining experience. When Yvette’s closed, we lost an excellent restaurant. This is a tough business and good restaurants run by good people need support. So let’s make it a point to venture out and support People’s restaurant. They provide a delicious unique meal. It’s in the Riverside neighborhood located right on the city line where Niagara Street turns into River Road. People’s is open seven days a week until 9PM. Their telephone number is 447-7892. Hey, they deliver!


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