El Fogon                                   
239 Niagara Street, Buffalo.              
by Mike Niman & Laura McClusky        
Buffalo Gazette Culinary Arts Critics   

If you’re from Puerto Rico and you’re homesick, stop by El Fogon. Or if you’re not, but you think you’re due for a cheap trip to the tropics, stop by El Fogon. Culturally, this small Niagara Street eatery is like walking into the family kitchen — in Puerto Rico.

It’s cozy, comfortable and friendly, with a handful of patio tables for customer seating and salsa music to get your feet tapping. You’ll usually hear only Spanish from the other tables, though English is spoken by the staff. It doesn’t feel quite like a restaurant, but you certainly feel welcome. The stove is right up front. Help yourself to some Coco Rico (coconut pop) from the refrigerator and sit down and order your meal.

The menu is small. Actually there is no menu. The friendly folks at El Fogon will let you know what they’re cooking. Usually you have a choice of fried or stewed chicken, roast pork or beefsteak. There’s always red beans and yellow rice. In season you can get fried plantains and other island treats.

We opted for plates of roast pork and yellow rice, and beefsteak and yellow rice. We also ordered two sides of red beans. The yellow rice was quite tasty, with a few lentils and capers added for flavor, all quick fried in pork fat, though not at all greasy. The rice was slightly dry, but only because we came in near closing time. The beefsteak consisted of two good sized pieces of lean thin cut stewed beef. The beef was delicately spiced and quite tender, served in a light gravy with onions and peppers. The pork was generously carved off the bone in thick juicy slices. It was served simply with the yellow rice making a delicious combination.

Both meals were quite filling, rendering the sides of red beans unnecessary. Each, however, could have been a small meal in its own right. Fresh cooked beans always offer something that just can’t be found in canned beans. These tasty kidney beans were served with their own juice with a hint of salt and a few slivers of cooked onions. Simple but tasty.

Our full meals, with sides of beans and cans of pop, cost $6.50 each, plus tax. No desserts were available the day we visited. El Fogon is open weekdays and Saturdays for lunch and dinner, usually closing around 7 PM. So stop in, relax and enjoy a great home-style Puerto Rican meal. Que Bueno!